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And, yes, I DO take it personally

Tuesday, February 01, 2011

It's spreading...!

i don't want to run the risk of overstating what's happening here but i'm not sure that's possible...
AlJazeera: Jordan's King Abdullah dismisses government, names new PM amidst protests

Jordan's King Abdullah has dismissed his government and appointed a new prime minister, AlJazeera reports.

The network says the Jordanian government resigned amid protests in the country.

this is big, no doubt about it...

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Friday, January 28, 2011

Egypt update: several of the policemen stripped off their uniforms and badges and joined the demonstrators

not lookin' good for mubarak...
In one of many astonishing scenes Friday, thousands of anti-government protesters wielding rocks, glass and sticks chased hundreds of riot police away from the main square in downtown Cairo and several of the policemen stripped off their uniforms and badges and joined the demonstrators.

if mubarak, certainly one of the strongest of the middle east strongmen, goes down, look out... yemen, algeria, morocco, syria, jordan, saudi arabia, the uae, iran, kuwait, and - dare i say it - even iraq, are sitting ducks... in fact, any country with a corrupt and repressive leader at the helm (think karzai) is going to be seriously vulnerable...

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Pulling the plug on the internet in Egypt - what our handlers would like to be able to do in the U.S. [UPDATE]

[UPDATE]

here's an arresting visual...

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make no mistake... what happened early this morning in egypt is precisely what our super-rich elites and their bought and paid-for puppets in government would like to be able to do to us if, at some point, Things Get Out Of Hand...
About a half-hour past midnight Friday morning in Egypt, the Internet went dead.

Almost simultaneously, the handful of companies that pipe the Internet into and out of Egypt went dark as protesters were gearing up for a fresh round of demonstrations calling for the end of President Hosni Mubarak's nearly 30-year rule, experts said.

Egypt has apparently done what many technologists thought was unthinkable for any country with a major Internet economy: It unplugged itself entirely from the Internet to try and silence dissent.

Experts say it's unlikely that what's happened in Egypt could happen in the United States because the U.S. has numerous Internet providers and ways of connecting to the Internet. Coordinating a simultaneous shutdown would be a massive undertaking.

"It can't happen here," said Jim Cowie, the chief technology officer and a co-founder of Renesys, a network security firm in Manchester, N.H., that studies Internet disruptions. "How many people would you have to call to shut down the U.S. Internet? Hundreds, thousands maybe? We have enough Internet here that we can have our own Internet. If you cut it off, that leads to a philosophical question: Who got cut off from the Internet, us or the rest of the world?"

In fact, there are few countries anywhere with all their central Internet connections in one place or so few places that they can be severed at the same time. But the idea of a single "kill switch" to turn the Internet on and off has seduced some American lawmakers, who have pushed for the power to shutter the Internet in a national emergency.

The Internet blackout in Egypt shows that a country with strong control over its Internet providers apparently can force all of them to pull their plugs at once, something that Cowie called "almost entirely unprecedented in Internet history."

[...]

In 2009, Iran disrupted Internet service to try to curb protests over disputed elections. And two years before that, Burma's Internet was crippled when military leaders apparently took the drastic step of physically disconnecting primary communications links in major cities, a tactic that was foiled by activists armed with cell phones and satellite links.

Computer experts say what sets Egypt's action apart is that the entire country was disconnected in an apparently coordinated effort, and that all manner of devices are affected, from mobile phones to laptops. It seems, though, that satellite phones would not be affected.

here's what's proposed for the u.s., sans any option for judicial review...

four days ago via cnet...

Internet 'kill switch' bill will return

A controversial bill handing President Obama power over privately owned computer systems during a "national cyberemergency," and prohibiting any review by the court system, will return this year.

Internet companies should not be alarmed by the legislation, first introduced last summer by Sens. Joseph Lieberman (I-Conn.) and Susan Collins (R-Maine), a Senate aide said last week. Lieberman, an independent who caucuses with Democrats, is chairman of the Senate Homeland Security and Governmental Affairs Committee.


"We're not trying to mandate any requirements for the entire Internet, the entire Internet backbone," said Brandon Milhorn, Republican staff director and counsel for the committee.

Instead, Milhorn said at a conference in Washington, D.C., the point of the proposal is to assert governmental control only over those "crucial components that form our nation's critical infrastructure."


what is happening in egypt should be a wake-up call for the rest of the world...

meanwhile, after the fall of the government in tunisia, the escalation in egypt and now in yemen, and there are even tremors being felt in jordan, one of the most stable of the regional states...

Thousands of protesters on Thursday took to the streets of Yemen, one of the Middle East’s most impoverished countries, and secular and Islamist Egyptian opposition leaders vowed to join large protests expected Friday as calls for change rang across the Arab world.

The Yemeni protests were another moment of tumult in a region whose aging order of American-backed governments appears to be staggering. In a span of just weeks, Tunisia’s government has fallen, Egypt’s appears shaken and countries like Jordan and Yemen are bracing against demands of movements with divergent goals but similar means.

i am definitely feeling tectonic plates shifting...

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Monday, August 02, 2010

Rocket hits across from Intercontinental Hotel in Aqaba, Jordan

when i was working on a project there, i stayed at the intercontinental and frequently walked right past the spot in the photo...

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AQABA, Jordan — A rocket slammed into this Jordanian Red Sea resort on Monday morning, killing a Jordanian taxi driver and injuring five people, Jordanian officials said.

Because a nearby Israeli resort [Eilat] reported rocket fire around the same time, suspicions focused on the theory that a rocket aimed at it had gone astray.

aqabites and jordanians in general are wonderful people... this is not good...

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Friday, July 24, 2009

Jordan's Queen Rania speaks out on Gaza

during four trips to jordan over the past nine months, i learned a lot about a country i didn't really know at all...

among the things i learned is that the jordanian people are some of the most hospitable, likable people imaginable... i also learned that king abdullah, like his father, king hussein, is a smart, decent, visionary leader who presides over an islamic country that takes great pride in its tolerance, solidity, prosperity, many generations of relative peace, and the respect it has gained for its leadership in the middle east and the arabic and islamic worlds...

queen rania, king abdullah's beautiful wife, is no slouch either, leading the way for human rights, the alleviation of poverty, equality for women, and, last but far from least, championing an end to the on-going, unconscionable genocide being inflicted on the palestinians by israel, in particular the nightmare that israel has created in gaza...

queen rania tells it like it is...


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Monday, May 11, 2009

Juan Cole on Palestinian statelessness and Obama's possible initiative

i'm trying not to feel encouraged because, when i do, it's usually a set-up for massive disappointment...

however, i'll let juan cole tell it...


King Abdullah II of Jordan revealed to the Times of London that the Obama administration may attempt a comprehensive peace treaty between Israel and the entire Muslim world. The latter would recognize Israel and grant El Al overflight rights. Israel in return would have to freeze settlement activity and move smartly toward a two-state solution and the establishment of a Palestinian state, with Israeli settlers removed from the West Bank. The status of Jerusalem would be left for later negotiations.

Abdullah warned that if rapid progress is not made, another war will probably break out in the region within 18 months to two years.

In my view, the central problems in the Israeli-Palestinian conflict are the statelessness of the Palestinians in the Occupied Territories and in their diaspora, the continued military occupation or blockade by the Israelis, and the rapid expansion of Israeli colonies, which are usurping Palestinian land and rights.

Until the statelessness of the Palestinians is understood and seen as the central problem that it is, there can be no real progress on the issues. Statelessness was an attribute of slaves in premodern times. The Jews of Europe in the 1930s and 1940s were the primary victims of the crime of stripping people of their citizenship in a state. It is monstrous that Palestinians should be stateless all these decades after 1948. Make no mistake; it is Israel that deprived them of statehood, which the 1939 British White Paper pledged to them, and which other League of Nations Mandates, such as French Syria and Lebanon and British Iraq, achieved.

A stateless person ultimately has no rights, since it is states that guarantee rights. A stateless person may be robbed, raped, and sometimes even killed with impunity. Stateless children are often deprived of schooling. Since the property of the stateless is ambiguous with regard to its legal status, the stateless are at risk for extreme poverty. The contemporary world is a world of states, and falling between the cracks because you lack citizenship in any state is a guarantee of marginality and oppression.

Apologists try to shift the blame for Palestinian statelessness from Israel to someone else. But it won't work. The original tort of derailing Palestinian independence was Israel's, and Israel has been the main force preventing the declaration of a Palestinian state, so it is Israel that must step up here. Other countries cannot be expected to solve a problem created by the Israelis, nor do most of the countries in the region have the economic efflorescence or governmental stability to do so.

It seems obvious what needs to be done to end Palestinian statelessness. If a Palestinian state isn't created in short order, the world is in for decades of Apartheid and political decay and consequent trouble, including terrorism and further wars. At the end of this process likely Israel will be forced to absorb the Palestinians as its own citizens, i.e. you end up with a one-state solution. The reason that there is more talk about the latter now is that it does at least resolve the central problem, of Palestinian statelessness, a problem that cannot be solved in any other way once a Palestinian state is forestalled by the massive Israeli colonization of the West Bank. (Actually I should say "Israeli and American," since a third of the Israeli squatters in the West Bank are Americans).

If Obama really is making this push for a comprehensive settlement, it is an enormous undertaking and its success is by no means assured (to say the least). He will have to be tough with Netanyahu and Lieberman, who will try to sabotage any such move. At least, the Obama administration is demonstrating some independence, and is no longer doing extensive advance briefings for Israeli officials on US diplomacy in the region.

looks like maybe even the pope, despicable individual that he is, may be getting in on the act...
Pope Benedict XVI called for the establishment of an independent Palestinian homeland immediately after he arrived in Israel Monday, a stance that could put him at odds with his hosts on a trip aimed at easing strains between the Vatican and Jews.

guess we'll have to wait and see or, as they say here in argentina, nos vemos...

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Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Back in Kabul and coordinating across time zones

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well, i knew i was going be covering a lot of ground the first part of this year, but, honestly, i'm now getting a little disoriented... i left the u.s. for argentina just before new years, and, less than two weeks later, headed to jordan for a couple weeks of work... then it was back to argentina and, on the way back, i took advantage of a 9-hour layover in london to go into town with a colleague for a walk in battersea park followed by some delicious indian food...

i was back in argentina again for less than two weeks before heading to afghanistan... i spent the last two weeks of february here in kabul and then headed back to jordan for another two weeks... last evening, i flew from jordan to dubai and then back to kabul this morning... i've got six weeks more in afghanistan before heading back to argentina for the month of may and then back to the u.s. to teach a summer class... i knew it was going to be challenging for this old fart to keep jumping multiple time zones, but, so far, i'm still in one piece, physically at least... you'll have to solicit the opinions of my colleagues about my mental and emotional state... HA...!

it's not only the multiple time zones that cause head-scratching, it's also that we're in the season for going on or coming off of daylight savings time, depending on whether you're in the northern or southern hemisphere... that's complicated by the fact that most countries don't change on the same dates as the u.s. does, plus there are many countries that don't observe daylight savings time at all... (see link here for a complete breakdown of daylight savings time worldwide...)

the above can lead to the kind of interesting situation where, depending on the date and the countries, their time zones could be either three hours apart or one hour apart... an example is argentina and u.s. east coast time... when argentina is on daylight savings time and the u.s. eastern time zone isn't, they're three hours apart... when u.s. east coast time is on daylight savings time and argentina isn't, they're only one hour apart... when both are on standard time, they're two hours apart... and then, of course, there are some years argentina doesn't observe daylight savings time AT ALL...! if you're not confused yet, just try coordinating a conference call with afghanistan, london, argentina, and washington d.c... fortunately, there's meeting planning aids that can help (see here...)

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Saturday, March 07, 2009

Friday photoblogging on Saturday

yesterday was a gloriously clear and beautiful day here in aqaba... being as how it was a friday (friday and saturday are the weekend in islamic countries), we decided to walk down along the public beach to the plaza that features the giant flagpole flying the flag of the arab revolt (see my post from january)... we also browsed the museum and the fort...

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The Aqaba Fort
The Aqaba Fort

The Crusaders occupied the area in the 12th century and built their fortress of Helim, which remains relatively well-preserved today. The Aqaba fort was rebuilt in the 14th century under one of the last Mamluk sultans, Qansah al-Ghouri, and has been substantially altered several times since then. The Hashemite Coat of Arms was placed above the main doorway during the Great Arab Revolt of World War I, after the Turks were driven out of the city. The fort is open daily and entrance is free.

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The flag of the Arab revolt as seen
from a portal in the Aqaba fort


then, like last time, we parked our keisters in the waterfront cafe to spend a couple leisurely hours smoking a shisha...

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that evening, we walked over to mohandas, a local version of a u.s. diner, where we pigged out on hummous and felafel... yum...

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Wednesday, March 04, 2009

Oh, and btw, I'm the down-on-his-luck star of my OWN soap opera

without going into incredibly boring details and a VERY long story, suffice it to say that i have had to send my passport off from here in jordan to d.c. to get an updated afghanistan visa so that i can return to kabul later this month and be cleared to stay until the end of april... i'm not at all keen on being minus my passport in a foreign country, particularly since i can't leave until i get it back...

however...

i sent it off on monday from here in aqaba to d.c. via dhl... below is the routing update current as of last night, wednesday, 4 march...


Tracking history... Help
Date and time Status Location Service Area
3/4/2009 10:11 pm Depart Facility East Midlands, United Kingdom
10:10 pm In transit. East Midlands, United Kingdom
3:07 pm Depart Facility London-heathrow, United Kingdom
7:45 am Clearance Delay London-heathrow, United Kingdom
7:44 am Transit through DHL facility London-heathrow, United Kingdom
1:20 am Depart Facility Bahrain, Bahrain
12:31 am Processed at DHL Location. Bahrain, Bahrain
3/3/2009 8:55 pm Transit through DHL facility Bahrain, Bahrain
8:55 pm Processed at DHL Location. Bahrain, Bahrain
4:12 pm Depart Facility Amman, Jordan
12:44 pm Processed at DHL Location. Amman, Jordan
7:05 am Transit through DHL facility Amman, Jordan
3/2/2009 4:58 pm Depart Facility Aqaba, Jordan
3:13 pm Processed at DHL Location. Aqaba, Jordan
2:50 pm Shipment picked up Aqaba, Jordan

see that little blue HELP button at the top right...? no shit... somebody needs help, and it ain't me...

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Sunday, January 18, 2009

Saturday Jordan photoblogging on Sunday

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yesterday - saturday - was the second day of the weekend here in aqaba, jordan... today, the u.s. project office where i work is closed to observe martin luther king day, so i get a three-day weekend (not like i'm not working anyway!)...

yesterday, however, i took a stroll down the public beach area along the gulf of aqaba... it was full of families enjoying a january day that almost bordered on hot... the beach area is lined with palm-thatched and canvas-covered canopies where food vendors offer tables, chairs, snacks, tea and shishas (water pipes) in the shade where the parents can relax while the kids frolic in the water and chase each other across the sand... paralleling the beach on a walkway are souk (bazaar) vendors peddling beach accessories, trinkets, souvenirs, collections of kids clothes, shoes, sandals, postcards - all the usual items such folks try to foist on visitors seeking water, sun and sand...

i walked all the way down to the enormous flagpole that flys the jumbo-sized flag of the arab revolt (not the same as the official flag of jordan, see above and below) that can be seen literally all over town... there were lots of families and kids there too and the kids were pestering their parents to let them have a turn on one of those small electric kiddie cars available for rent... following that, i adjourned to a nearby cafe where i plopped in a comfortable rattan chair on the terrace and took my ease while smoking a shisha and drinking turkish coffee... not a bad afternoon overall...


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Flag of the Arab Revolt as seen from the Gulf of Aqaba
(courtesy of Wikipedia)

The Aqaba Flagpole in Aqaba, Jordan is the second tallest free standing flagpole in the world at a height of 132 meters (430 feet) high. It carries the flag of the Arab Revolt and can be seen from Israel, Egypt, and Saudi Arabia.

here's the photo i took yesterday from the plaza that surrounds the flag base...

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aqaba is in the midst of a development boom which may or may not survive the current global financial meltdown... anyway, below is a photo i took from the waterfront near the flag looking back toward the hotel area, and the photo below that is an enlarged section where, if you can pick them out, you can see 7 construction cranes, all serving the construction sites of 7 different new hotels... (in the far center left of the larger photo, you can see the buildings of eilat, israel...)

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Aqaba (Arabic: العقبة‎, Al-ʻAqabah) is a coastal town in the far south of Jordan. It is the capital of Aqaba Governorate. Aqaba is strategically important to Jordan as it is the country's only seaport. The town borders Eilat, Israel, and there is a border post where it is possible to cross between the two countries (see Wadi Araba Crossing). Both Aqaba and Eilat are at the head of the Gulf of Aqaba.

[...]

During World War I, the occupying Ottoman forces were forced to withdraw from the town after a raid led by T. E. Lawrence and the Arab forces of Sharif Hussein in 1917, making the territory part of the Kingdom of Hejaz, under the rule of Prince Faisal. The capture of Aqaba helped open supply lines from Egypt up to Arab and British forces afield further north in Transjordan and Greater Palestine, and more importantly alleviated a threat of a Turkish offensive onto the strategically important Suez Canal.

[...]

Aqaba has been chosen for the sight of a new waterfront building project that would rebuild Aqaba with new man-made water structures, new high-rise residential and office buildings, and more tourist services to place Aqaba on the investment map and challenge other centers of waterfront development throughout the region.

[...]

Aqaba's economy is skyrocketing because of the economic zone. New resorts are being constructed, but most are still on its leveling stage. New projects like Tala Bay and Saraya al Aqaba are well under construction which will provide high-end vacation and residential homes to locals and foreigners alike.

Along with tourism projects, Aqaba has also attracted global logistic companies such as APM Terminals and Agility to invest in logistics, which boosted the city's status as a transport and logistics hub.

There are numerous hotels that reside in Aqaba but new hotels are also under construction.

finally, here's a photo of one of life's little pleasures, the shisha, something i was introduced to last year in afghanistan... finally i understand why you always see photos of tea and coffee shops with men sitting around smoking water pipes... it's a great way to pass the time, engage in conversation, drink coffee and tea and solve the world's problems...

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Depending on locality and supply, hookahs may be referred to by many names, often of Arabic, Indian, Turkic, or Persian origin. Narghilè is the name most commonly used in the Palestinian Territories, Lebanon, Syria, Iraq, Jordan, Greece, Turkey, Azerbaijan, Armenia, Bulgaria and Israel, although the initial "n" is often dropped in Arabic pronunciation. Narghile derives from the Persian word nārgil (نارگیل), meaning coconut, which in turn is from the Sanskrit word nārikela (नारिकेला), suggesting that early hookahs were hewn from coconut shells.[7]

In Albania, Bosnia, Croatia the hookah is called "Lula" or "Lulava" in Romani, meaning "pipe," the word "shishe" refers to the actual bottle piece.

Shisha (Arabic: شيشة‎), from the Persian word shīshe (شیشه), meaning glass, is the common term for the hookah in Egypt and the Arab countries of the Persian Gulf (including Kuwait, Iraq, Bahrain, Qatar, Oman, UAE, and Saudi Arabia), and in Indonesia, Morocco, Pakistan, Tunisia, Somalia and Yemen.

for those of you tempted to think i was engaged in smoking substances other than tobacco, you can put your minds at ease...!

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Sunday, January 11, 2009

Israel’s bombardment of Gaza is not self-defence – it’s a war crime

from the london sunday times via juan cole...
Israel’s bombardment of Gaza is not self-defence – it’s a war crime

ISRAEL has sought to justify its military attacks on Gaza by stating that it amounts to an act of “self-defence” as recognised by Article 51, United Nations Charter. We categorically reject this contention.

The rocket attacks on Israel by Hamas deplorable as they are, do not, in terms of scale and effect amount to an armed attack entitling Israel to rely on self-defence. Under international law self-defence is an act of last resort and is subject to the customary rules of proportionality and necessity.

The killing of almost 800 Palestinians, mostly civilians, and more than 3,000 injuries, accompanied by the destruction of schools, mosques, houses, UN compounds and government buildings, which Israel has a responsibility to protect under the Fourth Geneva Convention, is not commensurate to the deaths caused by Hamas rocket fire.

For 18 months Israel had imposed an unlawful blockade on the coastal strip that brought Gazan society to the brink of collapse. In the three years after Israel’s redeployment from Gaza, 11 Israelis were killed by rocket fire. And yet in 2005-8, according to the UN, the Israeli army killed about 1,250 Palestinians in Gaza, including 222 children. Throughout this time the Gaza Strip remained occupied territory under international law because Israel maintained effective control over it.

Israel’s actions amount to aggression, not self-defence, not least because its assault on Gaza was unnecessary. Israel could have agreed to renew the truce with Hamas. Instead it killed 225 Palestinians on the first day of its attack. As things stand, its invasion and bombardment of Gaza amounts to collective punishment of Gaza’s 1.5m inhabitants contrary to international humanitarian and human rights law. In addition, the blockade of humanitarian relief, the destruction of civilian infrastructure, and preventing access to basic necessities such as food and fuel, are prima facie war crimes.

We condemn the firing of rockets by Hamas into Israel and suicide bombings which are also contrary to international humanitarian law and are war crimes. Israel has a right to take reasonable and proportionate means to protect its civilian population from such attacks. However, the manner and scale of its operations in Gaza amount to an act of aggression and is contrary to international law, notwithstanding the rocket attacks by Hamas.

Ian Brownlie QC, Blackstone Chambers
Mark Muller QC, Bar Human Rights Committee of England and Wales
Michael Mansfield QC and Joel Bennathan QC, Tooks Chambers
Sir Geoffrey Bindman, University College, London
Professor Richard Falk, Princeton University
Professor M Cherif Bassiouni, DePaul University, Chicago
Professor Christine Chinkin, LSE
Professor John B Quigley, Ohio State University
Professor Iain Scobbie and Victor Kattan, School of Oriental and African Studies
Professor Vera Gowlland-Debbas, Graduate Institute of International and Development Studies, Geneva
Professor Said Mahmoudi, Stockholm University
Professor Max du Plessis, University of KwaZulu-Natal, Durban
Professor Bill Bowring, Birkbeck College
Professor Joshua Castellino, Middlesex University
Professor Thomas Skouteris and Professor Michael Kagan, American University of Cairo
Professor Javaid Rehman, Brunel University
Daniel Machover, Chairman, Lawyers for Palestinian Human Rights
Dr Phoebe Okawa, Queen Mary University
John Strawson, University of East London
Dr Nisrine Abiad, British Institute of International and Comparative Law
Dr Michael Kearney, University of York
Dr Shane Darcy, National University of Ireland, Galway
Dr Michelle Burgis, University of St Andrews
Dr Niaz Shah, University of Hull
Liz Davies, Chair, Haldane Society of Socialist Lawyer
Prof Michael Lynk, The University of Western Ontario
Steve Kamlish QC and Michael Topolski QC, Tooks Chambers

since i happen to be sitting here, a mere 15 minutes from the israeli border, i am particularly interested in what's happening in gaza... the jordanians, i can tell you, are watching this with great interest, as well they should...

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Monday, October 27, 2008

In Jordan - the valley of Wadi Rum

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i promised to post part two of the adventure we undertook last weekend... the previous post focused on petra... this post features wadi rum...

it is impossible to describe the vastness and majesty of the desert scattered about with these massive, wind and water-weathered sandstone monoliths... the emptiness, the silence, the sky, the clouds, the sun and the stars are very much in the foreground of consciousness in wadi rum rather than a barely noticeable part of the background...

we spent the evening out in the desert, watching the sunset and then returned to a desert camp where we were treated to bedouin food and music before retiring to our tent for a night's sleep... at 5:45 the next morning, we dressed and mounted camels for a short trek out into the desert to watch the sun rise... the experience was both indescribable and unforgettable...

some photos to tease your imagination...


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Our host for the night -
The Captain's Desert Camp


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The community gathering-place at the camp

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A Bedouin father and his children
(his youngest daughter is hiding behind him)


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Sunset on the desert at Wadi Rum
24 October 2008


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Sunrise on the desert at Wadi Rum
25 October 2008

Wadi Rum

Wadi Rum (Arabic: وادي رم‎) is a valley cut into the sandstone and granite rock in southwest Jordan. It is the largest wadi in Jordan. The name Rum most likely comes from an Aramaic root meaning 'high' or 'elevated'. To reflect its proper Arabic pronunciation, archaeologists transcribe it as Wadi Ramm.

Wadi Rum has been inhabited by many human cultures since prehistoric times, with many cultures — including the Nabateans — leaving their mark in the form of rock paintings, graffiti, and temples. As of 2007, several Bedouin tribes inhabit Rum and the surrounding area.

In the West, Wadi Rum may be best known for its connection with British officer T. E. Lawrence, who based his operations here during the Arab Revolt of 1917–18. In the 1980s one of the impressive rock formations in Wadi Rum was named "The Seven Pillars of Wisdom" in memory of Lawrence's book penned in the aftermath of the war, though the 'Seven Pillars' referred to in the book actually have no connection with Rum (see the Foreword in the book).

[...]

The area centred on Wadi Rum (the main valley) is home to the Zalabia Bedouin who, working with climbers and trekkes, have made a success of developing eco-adventure tourism, now their main source of income. The area around Disi to the NE, home to the Zuweida Bedouin and erroneously also thought to be part of Wadi Rum by visitors, caters more for Jordanian visitors from Amman, with campsites regularly used by party-goers.

The area is now also one of Jordan's important tourist destinations, and attracts an increasing number of foreign tourists, particularly trekkers and climbers, but also for camel and horse safari or simply 'day-trippers' from Aqaba or Petra. In contrast, there are almost no local or Arab tourists though nearby Disi (not actually part of Rum) attracts young people from Amman at weekends. Popular activities in the desert environment include camping under the stars, riding Arab horses, hiking and rock-climbing amongst the massive rock formations.

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Sunday, October 26, 2008

In Jordan - the ancient city of Petra

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we spent the day on friday (friday and saturday constitute the weekend in islamic countries) in petra, an astonishing archaeological treasure, a large city cut into utah-like sandstone canyons and crevasses, that dates back over 2400 years... you probably remember the famous scene in one of the indiana jones movies that featured the facade of one of the largest, most ornate, and impressive tombs... well, the reality of it is beyond words... unfortunately, not only were there piles of tourists, but nearby they were also filming the next transformers movie (Transformers: Revenge of the Fallen), imho, unforgiveable tackiness in a place like that...

in any case, here is just a sampling of the many, many photos i took on friday...


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Walking through the Siq

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Petra Treasury seen from the Siq

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The Petra amphitheatre

Petra

Petra (from "petra", rock in Greek; Arabic: البتراء, Al-Batrāʾ) is an archaeological site in the Arabah, Ma'an Governorate, Jordan, lying on the slope of Mount Hor in a basin among the mountains which form the eastern flank of Arabah (Wadi Araba), the large valley running from the Dead Sea to the Gulf of Aqaba. It is renowned for its rock-cut architecture. Petra is also one of the new wonders of the world.

The site remained unknown to the Western world until 1812, when it was discovered by Swiss explorer Johann Ludwig Burckhardt. It was famously described as "a rose-red city half as old as time" in a Newdigate prize-winning sonnet by John William Burgon. UNESCO has described it as "one of the most precious cultural properties of man's cultural heritage." In 1985, Petra was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Rekem is an ancient name for Petra and appears in Dead Sea scrolls associated with Mount Seir. Additionally, Eusebius and Jerome assert that Rekem was the native name of Petra, supposedly on the authority of Josephus. Pliny the Elder and other writers identify Petra as the capital of the Nabataeans, Aramaic-speaking Semites, and the centre of their caravan trade. Enclosed by towering rocks and watered by a perennial stream, Petra not only possessed the advantages of a fortress but controlled the main commercial routes which passed through it to Gaza in the west, to Bosra and Damascus in the north, to Aqaba and Leuce Come on the Red Sea, and across the desert to the Persian Gulf.

Excavations have demonstrated that it was the ability of the Nabataeans to control the water supply that led to the rise of the desert city, in effect creating an artificial oasis. The area is visited by flash floods and archaeological evidence demonstrates the Nabataeans controlled these floods by the use of dams, cisterns and water conduits. These innovations stored water for prolonged periods of drought, and enabled the city to prosper from its sale.

[...]

Although in ancient times Petra might have been approached from the south (via Saudi Arabia on a track leading around Jabal Haroun, Aaron's Mountain, on across the plain of Petra), or possibly from the high plateau to the north, most modern visitors approach the ancient site from the east. The impressive eastern entrance leads steeply down through a dark, narrow gorge (in places only 3–4 metres wide) called the Siq ("the shaft"), a natural geological feature formed from a deep split in the sandstone rocks and serving as a waterway flowing into Wadi Musa. At the end of the narrow gorge stands Petra's most elaborate ruin, Al Khazneh ("the Treasury"), hewn into the sandstone cliff.
The Monastery at Petra

A little further from the Treasury, at the foot of the mountain called en-Nejr is a massive theatre, so placed as to bring the greatest number of tombs within view. At the point where the valley opens out into the plain, the site of the city is revealed with striking effect. The amphitheatre has actually been cut into the hillside and into several of the tombs during its construction. Rectangular gaps in the seating are still visible. Almost enclosing it on three sides are rose-colored mountain walls, divided into groups by deep fissures, and lined with knobs cut from the rock in the form of towers.

and, if petra wasn't amazing enough, we went from there to wadi rum, but i will dedicate a separate post to that equally astonishing area...

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Sunday, October 05, 2008

In Aqaba, Jordan

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It's early on Monday morning and I'm listening to the gentle wash of the waves on the Red Sea shore outside my hotel room and thinking about my first impressions of Jordan.

My only previous experience with an Islamic country was the recent one in Afghanistan and so I was curious to see what Jordan would be like. The similarities are many - an Islamic people; a rugged, arid, desert landscape; muezzins singing prayers from the many mosques; women in headscarves and full-length, shapeless garments; and arabic people, most of whom are descended from nomadic tribes - but the differences are dramatic. For one thing, Jordan is not at war or at constant risk of terrorist activity, which makes it safe to walk the streets and generally to come and go as you please. For another, there is a much larger middle class and the abject, mind-numbing poverty on display everywhere in Afghanistan is mostly absent. The national infrastructure - what I have seen of it so far - is good. The 3 1/2 hour drive from Amman here to Aqaba was on a 4-lane divided highway that had obviously been recently resurfaced.

Aqaba is well laid-out with wide streets, often divided by medians full of palm trees, walking paths and places to sit and relax. The hotel I'm staying at is on a par with any other first-class hotel anywhere in the world, and there are a number of others in the same category and many more in various stages of construction. Restaurants are within walking distance and the sound of languages from numerous other countries - Germany, France, eastern Europe, and other Arab states - can be heard as tourists and their families come and go from beach outings.

The sheer volume of world history available within a two-hour drive of the city is amazing. From Lawrence of Arabia, to the Crusades, to major events recorded in the Bible, to the 4000 years of history and culture surrounding Petra, it's obvious that this is a truly ancient land with stories literally embedded in every rock.

The 40 kilometers of Jordanian coastline, stretching from Aqaba to the border with Saudi Arabia on the south, was increased to that amount a number of years ago by virtue of a land swap with Saudi Arabia, and it constitutes Jordan's only access to the sea. The port of Aqaba is a busy one and is equipped to handle both container and cruise ships and port facilities are being rapidly expanded.

Some people in my UNR class asked the other night why the U.S. was interested in giving foreign aid money to Jordan, and I had to confess I wasn't sure. Since coming here, I think I've found out why. The Islam practiced in Jordan is of the moderate, more open-minded variety and the country is relatively peaceful and stable and my guess is that the U.S. would like it to stay that way which means keeping the people happy and the current ruler, King Abdullah, in power. On the more immediately practical side, the port of Aqaba handles several hundred container ships a month where supplies for Iraq are off-loaded on trucks, and driven to Iraq by way of Amman.

I'll share other observations as I get them and when I have time. In the meantime, enjoy the photo below which was taken from the balcony of my hotel room. It's looking out at the Red Sea toward the south with the coastline of the city of Aqaba in the center right and unfortunately includes a construction site, only one of many here in this a-building resort city. To the far lower left right, well outside the border of the photo, is the city of Eilat, Israel. The border crossing to Israel is only minutes from the center of Aqaba and I am sure I'll be making that trip at least once during my visit. The map at the top of the post gives you a sense of place.


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Friday, October 03, 2008

In Amman, Jordan

woo-hoo... all flights were on time, i got some sleep on the long haul from chicago to amman, and my bags made it with me... who says we don't have a lot to be grateful for...? now, i'm going to find out what happened with the biden-palin nonsense last night, that i only got the briefest glimpse of in the gateroom in chicago, while i'm waiting for my colleague to arrive from london...

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Monday, June 02, 2008

Foreign Policy magazine - glorifying repressive regimes for being "tough on terrorism" while stirring up more fear

a publication with the impressive title of "Foreign Policy" ought to be able to rise above being a propaganda tool... oh, well... so much for a mag published by the carnegie endowment for international PEACE, eh...?
The List: The Worst Places to Be a Terrorist

Fighting transnational terrorism often involves making unsavory choices between protecting civil rights and providing security. The following regimes have opted for the latter and are definitely not the kind of places you want to get caught if you’re plotting some terrorist mayhem.

so where are these places that are so zealously safeguarding their citizens...?
  • Jordan
  • Egypt
  • Singapore
  • Russia
and, oh, by the way...
  • France
i just gotta ask, what's the implied message here...? are these places the u.s. should be emulating...?

now, for the fear-mongering...

How (Not) to Spot a Terrorist

Identifying terrorists on the battlefield is relatively simple. My scout-sniper school instructor always reminded us of a solid truism that applies perfectly both in Afghanistan and Iraq—shoot the one with the gun. The same cannot be said of the world’s most dangerous terrorists—the ones operating covertly inside the United States and Europe. They are an entirely different matter. Hunting them down is more akin to finding Soviet spies during the Cold War. It requires an educated, deeply institutionalized counterintelligence apparatus...

and...
Meet the New Face of Al Qaeda

Few of the deadliest modern-day suicide bombers fit the stereotype of a mass murderer. Here’s a look at four once-average people who epitomize the changing profile of the terrorists we fear most.

and they go on to profile folks that, horror-of-horrors, could pass among us unnoticed...

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Tuesday, May 20, 2008

The U.S. prisons, prison ships and proxy prison sites - Guantánamo, Bagram, Diego Garcia, Camp Lemonier, Morocco, Egypt, Jordan and, yes, Abu Ghraib

monday, 19 may, democracy now...
Amy Goodman of Democracy Now interviewing Clive Stafford Smith, a British attorney who represents more than fifty of the prisoners at Guantanamo, legal director of the UK charity Reprieve and author of Eight O’Clock Ferry to the Windward Side: Seeking Justice in Guantanamo Bay. He is testifying on Tuesday before the House Committee on Foreign Relations about Guantanamo Bay.

[A]ccording to the most recent official figures, the United States is currently holding 27,000 secret prisoners around the world. So that means that 99 percent of these folk are not in Guantanamo Bay. Now they’re in other prisons elsewhere. And as you mentioned, Bagram has 680. But there’s a huge number of people being held in Iraq, and one of the intriguing aspects of this that doesn’t get much reporting is that the US is bringing people into Iraq from elsewhere to hold them there, simply because that keeps rather annoying people like you, Amy—I mean the media—and also annoying people like me, lawyers, away from the prisoners so they can’t get any sort of legal rights.

And when you look around the world, there’s a huge camp, Camp Lemonier in Djibouti, where a lot of people are being held. Diego Garcia, contrary to the past analysis of the British government, in the Indian Ocean has been used, in my belief, to hold people. And we’ve identified thirty-two prison ships, sort of prison hulks you used to read about in Victorian England, which have been converted to hold prisoners, and we’ve got pictures of them in Lisbon Harbor, for example. And these are holding prisoners around the world, as well. And there’s a bunch of proxy prisons—Morocco, Egypt and Jordan—where this stuff is going on. And this is a huge concern, because the world focus is on Guantanamo Bay, which really is a diversionary tactic in the whole war of terror or war on terror, whatever you’d like to call it. And actually, most of these people who have been severed from their legal rights are in these other secret prisons around the world.

it's becoming increasingly apparent that guantánamo is a diversionary tactic... i speculated the other day that the announcement of the new prison to be built at bagram in afghanistan is a signal that guantánamo will indeed be closed... this will precipitate a victory chant from human rights activists who will fail to note that all of these other sites are still out there, just much less visible and a whole lot easier to shield from prying eyes...
AMY GOODMAN: Very quickly, Clive, did you say that you—that the US is taking prisoners to Iraq?

CLIVE STAFFORD SMITH: Oh, yes, they are. I mean, the US is taking an estimated forty to sixty, on average, prisoners a day around the world. And it doesn’t take a lot of arithmetic to tell you how many people that is each month. And people are being taken to Iraq to be held in Abu Ghraib, even today, and also in other camps in Iraq.

mark my words... we will see guantánamo closed about the time the new facility at bagram opens...

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Wednesday, April 09, 2008

Using our "allies" as proxy jailers and proxy torturers

so, sez the bush administration, WE don't torture and WE HAVEN'T SENT people to custody in OTHER COUNTRIES where they torture... everything's just fine and dandy... trust us... would we lie to you...?
A human rights group said Tuesday that the CIA transferred at least 14 terror suspects to Jordan for interrogation after September 11.

Human Rights Watch said in a new report that the U.S. ally in the Mideast served as a proxy jailer for the CIA until at least 2004.

"The Bush administration claims that it has not transferred people to foreign custody for abusive interrogation," said Joanne Mariner, the group's terrorism and counterterrorism director. "But we've documented more than a dozen cases in which prisoners were sent to Jordan for torture."

It said its 36-page report was based mainly on information from former Jordanian prisoners who had been detained with non-Jordanian terrorism suspects.

The group charged that Jordan commonly tortured suspects with extended beatings on the soles of their feet.

look... i totally believe that you lie through your teeth, incessantly and compulsively... MY question is this... can you point to even ONE single instance when you've told the truth...?

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Monday, August 20, 2007

One in ten Iraqis

from der spiegel...
Losing It's Best and Brightest: Iraq's Elite Fleeing in Droves

One in ten Iraqis has left the country. Baghdad's elite are trying to make ends meet in neighboring Jordan and Syria. Washington wants the United Nations to address the refugee crisis. In the meantime, the country is losing its best minds -- the very people needed to rebuild Iraq.

look at the incredible mess we've made...

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Monday, May 07, 2007

The REAL purpose of Darth's middle east trip

Scheduled stops include Saudi Arabia, Egypt, Jordan and the United Arab Emirates.

shoulda figgered something was up besides following in condi's footsteps trying to undo whatever she'd managed to do (or to do whatever she hadn't managed to do)...
The governments of Saudi Arabia and the United States are working with other states in the Middle East region to sponsor covert action against Iran, according to a report in this month's edition of The Atlantic [subscribers only]. The report also suggests that covert attacks may occur against Iran's oil sector.

David Samuels, in a lengthy article on Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice's diplomatic initiatives in the Middle East, reports that the US is promoting a campaign against Iran that includes covert action.

a reminder from last night's post quoting jeffrey feldman...
Dick Cheney's visit to the Middle East will do to that region what saltwater does to an open wound, what gasoline does to an open flame. Cheney's visit will bring more pain, more flames, more bombs, more lost limbs, more piles of corpses, more puddles of blood, more destroyed Iraqi hopes, more destroyed U.S. military families.

Cheney's visit will send diplomatic efforts backwards, not forwards. It will destroy alliances, not build them.

there's little doubt in my mind that the two most evil men on the planet are dick cheney and karl rove...

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